Monday, 13 August 2012

Lunch out means a light tea. Or does it?

A decent hike and a good lunch meant that we weren't very hungry when it came to suppertime.  We decided on cheese on toast, but then I remembered our old baby sitter used to make us fantastic welsh rarebit (although she didnt call it that).
I duly scanned the interweb and came across this interesting blog, which I reproduce here for my benefit, at the risk of boring you, dear reader:
p.s. I used whatever hard cheese I had in my cheese box, and as I had no stout I just used milk.  I also added some finely chopped shallot, and some chopped flat leafed parsley, and used french mustard, so it wasnt really much like this recipe, but it was still very good, and definitely worth  repeating.

How to cook perfect welsh rarebit

Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit
Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
About a year ago, I devoted some 1,500 words to the best way to cook a jacket potato. Among the many comments this important subject attracted was a demand that I devoted equal attention to perfect toast "because I can't wait to see what some of your more enlightened readers come up with". So finally, StrokerAce, this one's for you. It might not quite be what you requested (although I could certainly hold forth for a few hundred words on the best way to cook a crumpet), but after a week of cheese on toast, I am more convinced than ever that such simple recipes are well worth investigation.

Now, let's get the name thing out of the way at the start. Some suggest that the dish earned its rather peculiar title (and, once and for all, rabbit is the correct form regardless of what this newspaper's style guide says. Rarebit doesn't pop up until some 60 years after the recipe itself first surfaces, although given both have been in use for over two centuries, I think you're entitled to go with either. I prefer rabbit, but to fall in line with the official guidance will suffer rarebit here) from the poverty of that nation. The point was that a Welshman couldn't afford even that cheapest of meats. Whatever the truth of it, I think this does the heavenly combination of crisp toast and molten cheese a disservice; done right, it's certainly no poor relation.
Indeed, according to a 16th-century joke, the Welsh were famous for their love of toasted cheese – St Peter was said to have got rid of a troublesome "company of Welchman" who were troubling the peace of heaven by going outside and shouting caws pobi – "that is as moche as to say 'Rosty'd ches!' Which thynge the Welchman herying ran out of heven a grete pace". And who wouldn't be tempted from eternal bliss by such a prospect? In fact, according to Jane Grigson, rarebits were once common throughout southern and western England, but, with the only Welsh sort still on the menu, it seems they really do know how to do it best north of the Bristol Channel.

The cheese

Delia recipe welsh rarebit Delia recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Almost all recipes call for cheddar, but I suspect that's simply because it's what most of us keep in the house – and rarebit is a very Sunday-evening, empty fridge type of dish. There are other options: Jane Grigson suggests Lancashire in English Food, as do Simon Hopkinson and Lindsay Bareham in The Prawn Cocktail Years, where they explain that, traditionally, a rarebit would have been made from "hard English cheeses – cheddar, double gloucester, cheshire and lancashire". Mark Hix, perhaps anticipating a Welsh backlash, goes for caerphilly in his book British Regional Food, while Delia consigns any such concerns to the bottom of Lyn Tegid, and plumps for an equal mix of cheddar and parmesan for the Welsh Rarebit Soufflé in her Complete Cookery Course.
Nigel Slater recipe welsh rarebit Nigel Slater recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Nigel Slater reckons that caerphilly doesn't have enough of a "tang to be interesting", and I'm inclined to agree with him – the mild flavour is lost among the Worcestershire sauce, mustard and stout in Hix's recipe. However, at the risk of exposing myself as a cheese wimp, I find mature cheddar too aggressively flavoured – after half a slice, I start to feel a cheese overdose coming on (and this from someone weaned on Roquefort). Delia's parmesan obviously just makes the situation worse, but I'm on to something with lancashire; it has just enough bite to dominate the dish, without smothering every other ingredient in the process.

The toast

Although I like my rarebit made with seedy wholemeal toast, which I think gives a more interesting texture and a pleasantly malty flavour, I respect your right to use any sort of bread you like (although no one will persuade me of the merits of the Welsh rarebit foccacia, seen on the menu at a pub I recently didn't eat at). That said, it must be robust enough to take the weight of the cheese; anything too pappy will just become soggy. You can help it along by toasting both sides of the bread before adding the topping, as Mark Hix suggests, rather than just one, as in the Prawn Cocktail Years recipe: the outer edges might char slightly on their second grilling, but, as they'll be covered in cheese, you're unlikely to regret this.

The liquid

Mrs Beeton recipe welsh rarebit Mrs Beeton recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Most rarebit recipes, with the exception of Nigel Slater's quick version, loosen the cheese with a liquid: milk or ale, in Jane Grigson's version; cider for Cheese Society; port for Mrs Beeton; or stout, which comes with the weighty recommendations of both Mark Hix and the Bareham / Hopkinson team.
The cider is too acidic for my taste, and the port, while surprisingly delicious, gives the dish a vinous tang that reminds me more of a Swiss fondue than something from the Black Mountains. (It also turns the cheese a rather scary colour.) The ale isn't bad – it adds a subtle nutty flavour – but once I try a rarebit made with stout, I'm sold.
Simon Hopkinson recipe welsh rarebit Simon Hopkinson recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake It gives the dish a rich malty savouriness which works brilliantly with the salty tang of the cheese – and there are a number of great Welsh stouts available too, just to soften the blow of that English cheese. Nigel, meanwhile, mixes his cheese with solid butter, which gives a denser, more intensely cheddary topping which I'd hesitate to describe as anything grander than a simple cheese on toast.

The rich bit

Sophie Grigson recipe welsh rarebit Jane Grigson recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Such fat, however, is an important distinguishing feature in a proper rarebit. It could be melted butter, as in Jane Grigson's recipe, double cream, as in Mark Hix's, or egg yolks, as used in the Prawn Cocktail Years, but without it, as Mrs Beeton's recipe proves, the cheese quickly reverts to a rubbery mess (which is no doubt why she advises keeping it bubbling over a rather nifty-looking "cheese toaster" filled with hot water, for people to spread on to toast at table).
I think the butter makes things rather too liquid and greasy, and by the time I've reduced the double cream with the stout, I'm not sure I can taste it anyway. Egg yolks, however, work brilliantly to soften the cheese to a spreadable consistency, although I wouldn't wait until it's completely cool to stir them in, as Simon and Lindsay suggest, because by this point it has solidified to such an extent that it's difficult to beat back into smooth submission.

Wildcards

The Cheese Society's recipe welsh rarebit The Cheese Society's recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Delia uses eggs yolks too, added to a white sauce, and then mixed with cheese and folded into some whipped up egg whites to make what is, essentially, a soufflé base, which is then piled on to toasts and grilled. The airy texture does nothing for me though – gooey should be the watchword with rarebit.
The Cheese Society also has an unusual take on this classic dish. I start by whisking flour into milk, and heating until slightly thickened, then stirring in cheese, breadcrumbs and cider and continuing to cook until the mixture comes away from the side of the pan. The mixture is then whizzed in a food processor, along with an egg and an egg yolk, before it's ready to be spooned on to toast, and grilled.

Seasonings

I like English mustard in my rarebits, just to add a bit of a kick – wholegrain and Dijon are both too sharp here for my taste. Worcestershire sauce is a must, but I can do without Tabasco and cayenne pepper: the mustard adds all the subtle heat the dish needs.

Perfect welsh rarebit

Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Welsh rarebit may be a simple dish, but if even Nigel Slater admits to a few failures, then it's certainly worth getting the basics right. This is my perfect version, but, using the same formula, play around with different kinds of cheeses and beers until you find one that would tempt you out of paradise. Because if heaven isn't toasted cheese, then I don't know what is.
Serves 2
1 tsp English mustard powder
3 tbsp stout
30g butter
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
175g lancashire cheese, grated
2 egg yolks
2 slices bread

1. Mix the mustard powder with a little stout in the bottom of a small pan to make a paste, then stir in the rest of the stout and add the butter and about 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce – you can always add more later if you like. Heat gently until the butter has melted.
2. Tip in the cheese and stir to melt, but do not let the mixture boil. Once smooth, taste for seasoning, then take off the heat and allow to cool until just slightly warm, being careful it doesn't solidify.
3. Pre-heat the grill to medium-high, and toast the bread on both sides. Beat the yolks into the warm cheese until smooth, and then spoon on to the toast and cook until bubbling and golden. Serve immediately.

Monday, 6 August 2012

Tarte au Beaufort






Inspired by a delicious lunch up the mountain I sought out this recipe for a cheese tart with a soft cheesy inside. The mountain one was much deeper, but mine was dictated by the size of tin I used. Presumably a deeper one would need longer cooking at a slightly lower temperature.

You can use any Gruyere but because we are in Savoie it has to be Beaufort while we are here, although it isn't readily available in England.

20 cm tart tin
Ready rolled frozen pastry (Pâté Brisee)
3 eggs
200mls creme fraiche (I used reduced fat)
1 glass of milk .........................................} total 350mls liquid inc creme fraiche
Ground nutmeg
Salt and pepper
100g Beaufort or any other Gruyere, grated

Preheat oven to 180* My oven runs very hot, the recipe said 200 but it would have been toast if I had done it so hot!
Line and bake blind the flan case. 15-20 mins depending on your oven.

In a bowl beat the eggs with creme fraiche, milk and seasonings. Add cheese and mix well. Pour into cooked flan case.
Cook 180* 30-40 mins or until risen and nicely tanned on top.
nb  My french fan oven is very hot.  Tried cooking with bottom heat+fan at 160*

Delicious warm but difficult to cut, but will firm up when it cools down.


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Saturday, 4 August 2012

Hilary's cheesy whatsits


Further to the success of our savoury cakes, my friend Hilary who was visiting at the time, gave me this recipe for cheesy nibble things which can be Pré frozend then cooked from frozen as needed. Perfecto.

1 cup chopped onion
1 cup grated cheese
1 cup mayo
Lardons or chopped bacon (small)
Blanched almonds (chopped)
White sliced loaf, crusts removed
Garlic/ green herbs optional

Fry onions and lardons so softened not coloured, allow to cool.
Add grated cheese, fold in mayo and almonds and herbs.
Spread on bread, cut into bite sized shapes.
Freeze flat.

Cook as required from frozen, about 5-7 mins in a hot oven, enough to toast bread underneath and topping melted and slightly browned.



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French Savoury cake

This year in Pralognan we have been offered a savoury cake as a Pre prandial nibble, it is delightful alternative to nuts and crisps. Last night we had one flavoured with an unidentified herb, that later cogitation diagnosed it as caraway, so I will try adding that.
I can recommend the goats cheese with nuts and dried fruit. (2nd recipe down) haven't tried the others but will do so and report further.



This is part of Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's article from The Guardian:

I've found savoury cakes quick and easy, highly adaptable and, most important, very delicious. They are perfect for elevenses or, served with a little salad or even just a couple of raw carrots on the side, a very agreeable light lunch.
They're also a great way of using up small amounts of leftover roast chicken, smoked fish, bacon or odd ends of cheese. You can add finely diced roasted vegetables such as beetroot, courgette or peppers, too – just stick to the proportions of flour, eggs, fat and liquid I've used in today's recipes, and play with the main flavours and seasonings, depending on your mood and what you have in the cupboard. Use all-wheat flour, if you like, or, for a more substantial texture, combine flour half and half with fine cornmeal or polenta.
These cakes also work well in different sizes. Small ones, made in muffin tins or mini individual loaf tins, are great for packed lunches or picnics. And bring a larger one, made in a square or round cake tin, or in a larger loaf tin, to a table of hungry friends or family, and it'll go as fast as any jam sponge or chocolate sandwich. It's time to salé forth!

Ham and olive cake
Cut into thinnish slices, this makes a good nibble before dinner served with a chilled glass of sherry, cider or dry white wine. Makes one 20cm round or square cake, a loaf or about 10 mini cakes.
150ml olive oil, plus a little extra for greasing the tin
250g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
½ tsp paprika
1 tsp picked fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
100g parmesan, coarsely grated
180g cooked ham, roughly chopped
130g green olives, stoned and roughly chopped
½ tsp salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
150g milk
4 eggs, lightly beaten
Heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Grease a 1.5-litre loaf tin with olive oil, line it with baking parchment and brush the parchment with more oil. (Alternatively, you can make this in muffin tins, or mini loaf tins, which simply need brushing with oil and dusting lightly with flour.)
Sift the flour, baking powder and paprika into a bowl. Stir in the thyme, parmesan, ham, olives, salt and pepper. In a jug, whisk together the oil, milk and eggs. Stir the liquid into the dry ingredients until just combined and pour the lot into the prepared tin (or tins).
Bake for 45-50 minutes, until golden and a toothpick or skewer comes out clean. (Muffin tins or smaller loaves will take 12-15 minutes.) Leave to cool in the tin for five minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool completely.

Goat's cheese with raisins and hazelnuts
As with all these cakes, you can vary the ingredients for this depending on what you have to hand. For instance, this works well with walnuts in place of the hazelnuts and with other dried fruit in place of the raisins – finely chopped dried apricots are particularly good with the goat's cheese. Makes one 20cm round or square cake, a loaf, or about 10 mini cakes.
4 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra for greasing
200g plain flour
1 ½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
100g grated hard goat's cheese (or parmesan)
2 tbsp picked flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
3 eggs
100g plain yoghurt
150g soft goat's cheese, roughly broken into small chunks
60g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
60g raisins or sultanas
Heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Grease a 1.5-litre loaf tin with olive oil, line with baking parchment and brush the parchment with oil, too. (Alternatively, you can make this in muffin tins, or mini loaf tins, which simply need brushing with oil and dusting lightly with flour.)
Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Whisk in the grated cheese and parsley. In a jug, whisk the eggs, yoghurt and four tablespoons of olive oil. Gently fold this into the dry ingredients until just combined, being careful not to overmix, then fold in the soft goat's cheese, nuts and raisins.
Spoon the cake mixture into the prepared tin (or tins) and bake for 45-50 minutes, until golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. (Muffin tins or smaller loaves take about 12-15 minutes.) Leave to cool in the tins for five minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool completely.

Carrot and feta cake
By combining fine cornmeal or polenta with ordinary flour, you get a more substantial texture to the loaf that works particularly well with savoury ingredients. Makes one 20cm round or square cake, a loaf, or about 10 mini cakes.
50g butter, plus a little extra for greasing the tin
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
100g plain flour
100g cornmeal
1 ½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 carrots (about 200g), peeled and grated
180g feta, crumbled
2 tsp dill fronds, finely chopped
3 eggs, lightly beaten
150ml milk
Warm the butter in a small frying pan over a medium-low heat and sauté the onion until soft and translucent. Add the cumin, stir for a minute, then set aside to cool.
Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Butter a 1.5-litre loaf tin, or a loose-bottomed Victoria sandwich tin, and line with baking parchment. Butter the parchment, too (you can also make smaller ones in muffin tins or mini loaf tins, in which case simply butter the smaller moulds and dust with flour).
Sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt and pepper. Stir in the cooled cooked onion, grated carrot, feta and dill. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk, then mix into the flour mixture until just combined, and pour into the prepared tin (or tins).
Bake large cakes for 40 minutes, smaller ones for 12-15 minutes, until a toothpick or skewer comes out with no crumbs attached. Leave to cool in the tin for five minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool completely.

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